Along with my usual nature photography calendar (my annual Visionary Light calendar), I’m offering a California wine country calendar this year. It features images from the state’s beautiful wine regions, and I’m donating $5 from the sale of each calendar to the RCU North Coast Fire Relief Fund, which is helping with recovery from this year’s devastating wildfires in Sonoma, Mendocino and Napa counties. Just click this link to see a full preview that shows the 12 included images (and purchase one or a dozen!). They make a great holiday gift, and the funds are going to a great and important cause.
Like wine? Go here. Seriously–of all the wine events I attend each year, I always have the most fun at Garagiste because there’s a little bit of everything. No matter what type of wine you like–got a favorite variety? Favorite style? “Big” wines? Low alcohol wines? It’s all here.
In addition to the fantastic variety you’ll find at this festival, I have my own reasons for loving this event. Since my blog is all about story, this gives me a great opportunity to taste my way through small producers I would likely never encounter otherwise–and if I find something I like (and I always do), I’m able to get a quick version of the story behind the wine because it’s usually the winemakers themselves doing the pouring. Now how about that.
That means that if you like to ask lots of questions about wine or get to know the people who make it, this is your kind of tasting event.
The festival features 50 small producers (anywhere from 1500 cases/year to those with who only produce 100 or so cases a year), and styles run the gamut. Like lovely, old world style low-alcohol wines? You’ll love Two Shepherds. Are you a wine lover on the other end of that style scale–the bigger, the better? Then check out the beautiful brawny beasts of Pulchella. These are two of my favorite regulars at Garagiste events, and they produce some of the same Rhone varieties–but they could not be more different.
In addition to those two, other personal favorites I recommend at the festival are Caliza (especially their Azimuth), Alta Colina (I love their Sun Worshipper Mourvedre), and Bodega de Edgar. Most of the producers are from the Paso Robles area, but you’ll find wines from as far north as Sonoma County, to right down to our own Malibu hills in Los Angeles.
This year, the LA event is being held in Santa Monica, in the historic Santa Monica Bay Woman’s Club. Tickets for the Grand Tasting are sold out, but the VIP tickets–which get you into the event an hour early–are still available, and a bargain at $99–VIP access includes exclusive tastes of “Rare & Reserve” wines* ONLY being poured from 2-3pm for VIP Attendees. Get your tickets here. The tasting runs from 3 pm to 6 pm this Saturday (and 2 pm to 6 pm for VIP attendees). In addition to unlimited pours of a huge variety of wines, your ticket also includes bread, cheese & charcuterie, artisan food samples, as well as a souvenir Stolzle crystal wine glass.
But you know what’s really great? This:
Since inception, the non-profit Garagiste Events (producer of the Garagiste Festivals) has benefitted San Luis Obispo-based Cal Poly Wine and Viticulture Program, as part of its mission of furthering the education of future winemakers and those training for employment within the wine industry.
You can also feel good about where the proceeds from your ticket purchase goes. In addition, they’re also having a silent auction during the event featuring some of the best-of-the-best bottles from participating wineries. The proceeds from this also go to the Cal Poly program.
Check-in for VIP attendees begins at 1:50 pm, with VIP tasting beginning at 2 pm. The location is at 1210 Fourth Street, Santa Monica, CA. The event entrance is on Fourth just south of Wilshire Blvd.
I have been going in circles for months now over how to tell you about Markus Niggli and his incredible, challenging (and astonishingly good) wines. Writer’s block isn’t generally something I struggle with, but I also rarely come across someone like Markus–or his wines. And yes, I’m going to be throwing out a barrage of highly effusive superlatives here, because in this case it’s fully justified.
Flash back to last August, when I was in Lodi for the annual wine bloggers’ conference: I opted to go on the pre-excursion before the conference-proper began, and found myself in an intensive get-to-know-Lodi-wines experience. One of those get-to-know moments was in a shaded picnic area at Mokelumne Glen vineyard, where we were introduced to a handful of winemakers who produce wines from the Koth family’s “experimental” vineyard of German varieties, the vast majority of which are the only such plantings in the U.S.
There was one winemaker in particular who really got my attention, along with his wines. It was Markus Niggli. My initial impression of these wines was that they challenged my palate and what I thought I knew about white wines in a completely confounding, wonderful way. These are unusual wines in the best way–wildly aromatic, low-ish in alcohol, fantastically dry, and every bit as complex on the palate as they were on the nose. And then Markus took his turn to talk to our group. Tall and lanky, slightly intense, affable, and very, very Swiss. Not your usual Lodi type, to be sure.
So how does a Swiss winemaker find himself in Lodi? By way of Australia, naturally. Niggli’s first career was in tourism in Switzerland, and as he moved up the corporate ladder in that field, he traveled the globe and developed a keen interest in wine–and eventually in winemaking. He quit the tourism industry for a vineyard job in Perth, Australia, leaving his homeland–but never forgetting where he came from. This sense of place remains a powerful part of what he does, reflected not just by what’s in the bottle, but also what’s on the bottle (more on that in a moment).
After a few years in Australia, Niggli moved to California to continue his path as a winemaker; he was working at a winery in Napa when he jumped to Lodi’s Borra Vineyards in 2006, taking on the job of winemaker for Steve Borra’s smartly styled wines. But it’s his “sub-venture” with Borra, under his Markus Wine Co. label, where he gets free creative reign over a lineup of (mostly) white wines that are both unconventional and evocative of more traditional European (especially German and Swiss) styles. Though it’s not his sole source of grapes for the Markus label, access to the Koth’s vineyard gives Niggli the opportunity to produce wines using varieties like Kerner and Bacchus, with outstanding results.
One of his most interesting wines is his Kerner-dominant Nimmo; rather than aging it in stainless steel or concrete (the more conventional approach for the European versions of this grape), this wine sees several months in new oak. Now stop right there: if your mind immediately thought of oak-y Chardonnay, you could not be further from what this wine is like. The prominent terpene compounds common to these German varieties–Riesling, Kerner, Bacchus and so on–transform into something quite different with new oak; it’s an age-worthy, exceptionally dry, and (of course) highly aromatic wine. It’s one of the most fascinating (and tasty) wines I’ve ever tried.
Niggli’s wines will shake up your palate and make you think about what’s in your glass. Most of his other wines–which include another variation on the Kerner grape, a 100% Gewürztraminer, a Torrontes-Traminette blend (all highly aromatic varieties)–are aged in stainless steel, and all of his wines are fermented with native yeasts, with no secondary ML fermentation. You will taste (and smell) a range of white flowers, meyer lemon, lychee, green apples–with a backbone of minerality that lends terrific balance (and I deliberately use the somewhat controversial term “minerality,” because there is an unmistakable note of wet rock, a dustiness, a chalkiness, that lingers on the finish on Niggli’s wines). I admittedly have a mile-wide soft spot for dry, aromatic white wines, and these have become instant favorites of mine.
Now, about what’s on the outside of those bottles: I resist getting too hung up on wine labels, because they generally have nothing to do, really, with what’s inside that bottle, but Niggli has taken an interesting approach to his. Most of the labels (and in one case, the actual name of the wine) commemorate his connection to a place or some experience in his past. The label for his Nativo (the stainless steel Kerner blend) is an odd assortment of letters and numbers. He decided to seek out the work of design students at University of the Pacific–these students have designed all of the Markus Wine Co. labels–but didn’t want them to be focused on the wine itself for the design–he gave them zero information on the wine inside the bottle, and instead gave them the combination “MBKW8872” and designated the color green for the label. The significance of that text is this: M, B and K are the first initials for Markus and his two brothers, the W refers to his home town Weesen, Switzerland, and 8872 is Weesen’s postal code–a nod to his home and family.
His Nimmo (the oaked Kerner blend) takes its name from a mnemonic acronym he created when he lived in Australia and needed to remember how to find his way to his winery job–it’s the first letters in the names of the streets he needed to take to get to and from work; as the name of his wine, it’s an acknowledgement of where his path as a winemaker got its start. Place matters, and Niggli never seems to lose sight of all the places that have brought him to where he is today–he makes thoughtful reference to this on his labels, but more important is that you also find the influence of all those places in what’s inside the bottle. And what’s in the bottle is very, very good.
You can taste Markus Wine Co. wines at the Borra tasting room–they’re open the last weekend of every month, and also by appointment (which you can do directly on their website). If you’re lucky, you’ll get to chat with Markus himself (something I highly recommend).
Borra and Markus Wine Co. hold an open house the last weekend each month; upcoming dates are July 28-30, Fri-Sun 12-5 and August 25-27, Fri-Sun 12-5. Make sure to try (and take home a few bottles of) his 2016 Zeal–a rosé of Syrah that will knock your socks off. It’s bone-dry, spicy-strawberry-rhubarb, with a bright acidity that’s perfect on a hot summer day.
Borra Vineyards/Markus Wine Co.
1301 East Armstrong Road
Lodi, CA 95242
When LoCA’s Randy Caparoso asks if you might possibly have plans to be in Lodi the following weekend, you should probably say YES, even if you live in Los Angeles and did not, in fact, already have plans to be in Lodi. If it were me, that is–and it was, and I did say yes.
Randy was leading a culinary wine and food pairing class (“exploration” might be a better word) at Lodi’s beautiful Wine & Roses Hotel a couple of weeks ago along with Executive Chef John Hitchcock, and I happily accepted the offer to cover the event for Lodi Wine.
As part of Wine & Roses’ ongoing Cooking School offerings, the evening was somewhere between a class (ahem, exploration) and an elegant food and wine pairing featuring some of Lodi’s best offerings. The hotel itself, an historic Lodi property which had its beginnings in 1903 as a private estate, is a gorgeous setting for such an event. I had the privilege of staying at Wine & Roses that weekend, and it’s a wonderful destination in its own right with the on-site Towne House restaurant and spa. The rooms are spacious and well-appointed, with an unmistakable air of luxury.
As I skimmed the menu for the dinner and pairing, three significant things jumped out at me. One, there was a nod to classic pairings (caviar and bubbles, for starters); two, some challenging pairings–and by challenging, I mean dishes that employed unconventional flavors (and thus a challenge to find just the right wine) such as wasabi; and three, that some of Lodi’s best wines (and several of my personal favorites) represented the region quite well in the company of great cuisine.
First up, and perfectly so, was the Yukon Gold blini with caviar, creme fraiche and lemon zest–this French Laundry recipe was paired with two Lodi sparklers, a Brut and a Blanc de Blancs from LVVR Sparkling Cellars. The two non-vintage sparkling wines are produced in the méthode champenoise style and were an ideal accompaniment to the lighter-than-air blini and the hit of salty-briny caviar. Both are fine sparkling wines with their traditional production method evident in the yeasty, bready nose; these were both new Lodi wines for me, and I still can’t decide on a favorite. I thought both paired really well with this small bite, and provided a great introduction for the assembled crowd to begin thinking about the relationship between food and wine.
The second offering, Billi Bi – a traditional French cream of saffron mussel soup, was served as a small bite on porcelain spoon, and was the first real wake-you-up flavor of the night with the mouthful-of-ocean taste of the mussel. Paired with that was Markus Wine Co.’s 2016 Nativo, a bone-dry and intensely aromatic blend of German varieties (Kerner, Riesling and Bacchus) from the Koth vineyard in Lodi’s Mokelumne River AVA. This particular vineyard, which boasts more than 50 German varietals–many of them the only such plantings in the United States–is one of Lodi’s most remarkable hidden gems, and winemaker Markus Niggli creates some of the most compelling and original wines from them. The Billi Bi is a tricky pairing, because it does best with a white wine, but needs a white that can stand up to the strong flavors of the dish. The Nativo’s elegant and spicy acidity was the perfect choice (and I’m currently working on a profile of Markus Niggli, which I hope to publish next week).
This particular pairing, along with the oyster with wasabi that followed, was the ideal platform for Caparoso to go into a subject area that few in the business know better (not to mention had an active hand in developing)–how to pair wine with decidedly non-French, non-traditional (non-European) flavors of spice and umami. After years as a sommelier and wine program manager for more traditional French restaurants, Caparoso joined up with Hawaiian Chef Roy Yamaguchi and would go on to co-found the Roy’s Restaurant franchise, ultimately reaching 28 locations across the globe. Roy’s helped popularize the pan-Asian cuisine that now seems omnipresent, but that cuisine presents a spectrum of flavors that do not immediately and obviously bring to mind the kind of wine pairings familiar in more traditional Euro-centric restaurants.
Wine pairings, Caparoso told the class, should take into consideration contrast as well as similarity. “Food should make the wine taste better, too” (not just the other way around). Think of wine AS food, he said–or as an ingredient with the food. With food featuring flavors of spice and umami, use that idea of contrast when you begin to search for wines that will pair well with those kinds of dishes.
And indeed, the next pairing was a great example of what Caparoso was talking about. The fried Kumamoto oyster with micro wasabi and asian pear had exactly that pan-Asian personality, with the subtle but sharp heat of the wasabi lifting the savory fried oyster to a whole new level. So what goes with wasabi? Forget the Asahi and Sapporo. Wine absolutely can be successfully paired with this flavor, and it doesn’t have to be the most oft-parroted suggestion of a dry Riesling. With this, the 2016 Fields Family Wines’ Vermentino was dry, tart, and perfect. Flavors of meyer lemon and lemongrass, a slight salinity and solid minerality–that citrus backbone balanced so well with the fried oyster, and held its own against the wasabi component of the dish.
We enjoyed a third wine in the mix with the appetizers before heading on to the main course–Acquiesce’s 2016 Grenache Rosé. We were encouraged to try the two whites and the Grenache Rosé with both of the appetizers as a way of experiencing how a dish can pair well with a variety of wines. This traditionally styled Rosé, with a strong nod to its French roots, is dry, with abundant fruit and a little of that trademark spice that the Grenache grape shows so well. And it was a great transition into the wines featured with the next course.
The entree for the evening, seared squab with pan jus and ratatouille, was a simple, traditional and stunningly presented dish–instead of the traditional rustic presentation, Chef Hitchcock and his staff prepared a meticulously brunoised take on this dish; that careful and skillful touch elevated an already-great dish; the aesthetics and texture were simply lovely. The squab was prepared sous vide and then seared and dressed with pan jus. And to go with this hearty but not heavy dish? Two stellar Grenaches: Bokisch Vineyards’ 2014 Garnacha (the Spanish name for the Spanish variety perhaps better known by its adopted Rhone identity), and McCay Cellars’ 2014 Grenache. This is a lightish/mediumish-bodied variety, with lively spice and fruit, and both iterations of this wine tasted beautifully with the squab. These wines are a wonderful testament to Lodi’s ability to produce high-quality reds that are a universe apart from the big Zinfandels which built Lodi’s reputation over the last century-plus.
The final course (dessert, of course) struck me as a perfectly pitched, almost sentimental nod to Lodi. The vanilla bean panna cotta with rhubarb and strawberry salad with micro mint and lavender was light and creamy, with the seasonal, local rhubarb and strawberries throwing a balancing note of tartness. It was paired with perhaps the Lodi-iest of Lodi wines: the Jessie’s Grove Ancient Vine Tokay. This grape–a Vitis vinifera variety that was more commonly grown and consumed as a table grape–was the leading grape crop in Lodi before seedless varieties eclipsed it over the last quarter century (I could, and very well may, devote an entire post to this fascinating grape). It’s made in a white port wine style–so it’s lightly fortified–from 130-year-old Tokay vines, and never sits heavily on the palate.
It was a beautiful way to close out a great evening, and as the class lingered over the dessert, Wine & Roses proprietor Kathy Munson introduced James Beard Award-winning Chef Bradley Ogden, who joins Executive Chef John Hitchcock as the hotel’s new culinary director. It’s exciting to look forward to what these two great culinary minds will come up with as a team (and also a good time to note that Wine & Roses has several dinners on its summer schedule, each featuring a particular Lodi winery).
LVVR NV Lodi Sparkling Brut ($20)
LVVR NV Lodi Blanc de Blancs ($20)
Markus Wine Co. 2016 Nativo ($22)
Fields Family Wines 2016 Vermentino ($19)
Acquiesce 2016 Grenache Rosé ($24)
Bokisch Vineyards 2014 Garnacha ($20)
McCay Cellars 2014 Grenache ($35)
Jessie’s Grove 2011 Ancient Vine Tokay ($35)
I hope Sue Tipton forgives (or at least has a chuckle over) the literary reference above. As I sat down to write this piece, and thought about how to title it, I realized I was as confounded by how to properly describe her and her outstanding wines as I was the first day I tasted them. And this is a very good thing.
I have a great fascination with–and admiration for–winemakers who trust their vision enough to buck trends and defy norms and expectations. Sue Tipton, owner and winemaker of Acquiesce Vineyards in Lodi, California, is one of those mavericks, and the resulting wines prove how great her vision is.
The day I visited her tasting room as part of last year’s wine blogger conference, it really was a bit of a through-the-looking-glass experience. I knew very little about Lodi and its wines, but did know their reputation for producing tens of thousands of acres of red wine grapes, especially Zinfandel. So, naturally, the first place I’m taken on the Lodi pre-conference excursion is Acquiesce, where you will find a lineup of outstanding Rhône varieties inspired by the wines of Chateauneuf de Pape–and not a single red among them. (Way to shake things up, LoCA.)
That’s a bold choice for a Lodi winemaker. Heck, that’s a bold choice generally speaking.
It all started with one sip of wine.
Like almost every winemaker I’ve talked to over the years, Sue began her journey as a winemaker after being wowed by a particularly memorable bottle of wine–in her case, it was an old-world white Rhône blend from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. She’d never tasted anything like it before, and wanted more. She began seeking out more of those blends, both old AND new world wines, but that didn’t sate her growing fascination with this style of wine.
So the wheels began to turn–she and her husband Rodney, who is her partner in the winery, had recently moved to Lodi and purchased a home that shared land with 18 acres of Zinfandel vines, which were already under contract to wineries and winemakers, a kind of built-in income source. Soon, she began dabbling in home winemaking, using some of the Zinfandel grapes from their property to make a dry rosé. But she couldn’t stop thinking about that white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so they made the choice eleven years ago to rip out some of those income-producing Zinfandel vines–an anxiety-producing move, to be sure–and planted Grenache and Grenache Blanc (the former of which is used in her bone-dry Grenache Rosé).
It didn’t take long for what had been a hobby pursuit to morph into something more–and they made the decision to go into business. An old barn on the property was converted into a winery and tasting room, and they began purchasing the larger scale winemaking equipment needed to produce the increased amount of wine they were making.
Choosing to jump into a highly competitive business that’s subject to the vagaries of weather and consumer whims is not a choice made lightly, but it proved to be a very good choice indeed. Tipton expanded her plantings to include Roussanne, Viognier, and Picpoul Blanc and they opened their tasting room in 2012. As it would turn out, the demand for her wines exceeded their production every year, and Acquiesce was a bona fide success.
In 2015, she added two more Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties, Clairette Blanche and Bourbolenc. Those varieties are rare even for their home turf in southern France, but as we already know, she’s not afraid to move ahead with what others might see as unconventional choices. She hopes to see her first vintage of Clairette Blanche this year, and I cannot wait to taste what she does with it.
Let the grape speak.
Tipton chooses a minimalist approach to her wines–these beauties never touch oak, which lets the character of these grapes really shine. Her location in Lodi’s Mokulemne River sub-AVA gives her near-perfect growing conditions with the area’s sandy loam soil and the added benefit of cooler nights thanks to the cool coastal air from the Sacramento-San Joachin River Delta that drifts in every evening. Combined with the area’s Mediterranean climate, all these conditions come together to allow these varieties to be taken to appropriate ripeness (something that’s a challenge for their Châteauneuf-du-Pape counterparts), and this results in grapes that are bright and crisp with intense fruitiness, and great acidity and minerality. If any of this surprises you, read all about Lodi’s Mokelumne River soils from LoCA’s Randy Caparoso.
Acquiesce’s very name comes from Tipton’s desire to let these grape varieties’ best qualities shine through:
Acquiesce – verb: to surrender, to become quiet. Acquiesce has become our mantra — to submit to nature, to yield to the vineyard, to acquiesce to the grapes so they present their own true character. Attention to detail reigns here with sustainable vines that are lightly watered, grapes that are handpicked and then whole cluster pressed to create wines that are both classic and traditional.
So what about those wines? They’ve won an impressive number of awards and accolades, and demand for her wines is so great that she had to close her wine club to new memberships for a long stretch. She reopened the club to new members just two weeks ago, and the response has been so overwhelming that she told me she expects to have to close it again by mid-April.
My personal favorite of hers (although it’s really hard to pick a favorite) is the Picpoul Blanc–this is the wine that stopped me in my tracks when I tasted it last summer. This variety is known for its sharp, citrus tartness–the name translates roughly to “lip stinger”–and hers is perhaps the best version of this variety I’ve tasted. Dry, almost mouth-puckeringly tart, but balanced out beautifully with intense fruitiness and great body. It is a gorgeous wine, and I’m impatiently awaiting her 2016 release of this one.
The entire lineup is impressive, though, and the 2016 Grenache Blanc, Grenache Rosé and Viognier are now available (and if you run REALLY fast, you can pick up one of the few remaining bottles of her 2015 Belle Blanc, a Rhône blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne). Still to come this spring are the releases of that stunning Picpoul Blanc, the Roussanne, and the Belle Blanc.
Tipton produced 1400 cases of wine in 2015, and this grew to 2000 cases for the 2016 vintage. She also has a sparkling Grenache Blanc in the works, méthode champenoise style, which she hopes to release in about a year (I may be excessively excited about this one, because BUBBLES).
Acquiesce is a most unexpected gem to find in the heart of Lodi’s red wine country. The winery is open for tasting Friday – Sunday from 11 am – 5 pm, and each flight is expertly paired with a small bite, which is a wonderful touch (and a bargain at the $10 tasting fee). Tasting fee waived with a bottle purchase–but I’ll bet you can’t buy just one. They even have a Tesla charging station for your convenience.
Acquiesce is located at 22353 N. Tretheway Road Acampo, California 95220, Phone (209) 333-6102.
I do not generally devote an entire blog post to a single wine, or a single bottle of spirits (unless it’s just a quickie kind of review).
But this is different. Really different.
First, a preamble and a bit of a explanation for why I am so besotted with Greenbar’s Grand Poppy bitter liqueur (or “bitter brandy”). In my work as a nature photographer, my focus for the last year or so has been on my Land/Sea project. The “land” part of that is centered on California’s chaparral ecosystem. What is chaparral, exactly? The technical definition, courtesy of the California Chaparral Institute, is this:
Chaparral is a special plant community characterized by drought-hardy, woody shrubs, shaped by a Mediterranean-type climate (summer drought, winter rain)
It is, in fact, California’s most common ecosystem–and belongs almost entirely TO California. Chaparral stretches into southern Oregon and Baja California just a wee bit, but it’s almost solely a California landscape. It’s also California’s most unloved ecosystem–it’s tough and scrubby, too dense to even hike through in many areas, and very prone to fire (always a concern in our drought-plagued state). It’s strangely beautiful, with a muted rainbow of color, a host of edible and medicinal plants, and home to critical species of birds, reptiles, mammals and insects. I’ve been photographing this iconic California landscape for a while now, and continue to be amazed by its beauty and diversity.
So what does this have to do with a bottle of craft spirit? Greenbar has taken everything remarkable about chaparral that you can taste and smell, and they’ve bottled it. I’m already a fan of multi-sensory experiences; it’s why I end up photographing the wild areas surrounding every wine region I’ve ever visited. You can experience a place through every sense–and the idea that I can taste that chaparral ecosystem in this beautiful bitter brandy is pretty exciting to me.
Everything that I’ve captured with my camera, I can smell and taste in this spirit. I am instantly taken back to hours spent bushwhacking through sagebrush and manzanita–the aroma of sage and wild fennel and thistle and California bay leaf and on and on. Those things are literally in this bottle. And it’s delicious. As Greenbar describes it:
a California-inspired take on classic European aperitives. We made it by marrying the best of California’s bounty — citrus from our favorite Southern California farms, coastal herbs and berries we discovered on our hikes and one very bitter flower, the California poppy — to bring a new taste to cocktail lovers everywhere.
It’s not often (in fact, this may be a first) that I come across a spirit and find it significant beyond its own in-the-bottle merits. I think this is a significant spirit–it embodies the state it celebrates, and shows off some of the underrated beauty of the chaparral ecosystem. It’s nicely balanced between bitter and sweet, with a stunning range of herbs and other aromatics both on the nose and on the palate. It’s delicious on its own, and divine mixed into cocktails. You’ll find a recipe or three featuring this liqueur on the Greenbar website, and my personal preference for enjoying this remarkable spirit is to mix it with sparkling wine for a sort of champagne cocktail (three parts sparkling wine, one part Grand Poppy).
I would never have thought it possible to bottle the most representative and iconic landscape of California–but Greenbar has done just that. Highly recommend.
Wine festivals are fun things to go to–an impressive number of wines to taste as you wander at your own pace. Who wouldn’t have fun doing that?
But the California Garagiste Festival, which has its 6th annual event in Paso Robles this weekend, is a little different than your usual wine festival.
Why? Story. Everything comes back to story (stay with me, I’ll explain). As I’ve mentioned here previously, and as I detail on my “about” page, story is what took my interest in wine from whatever I could pick up at my local wine shop that tasted good to wanting to know everything about wine, and being able to do so with no pretense or intimidation. By story in this context, I’m talking about the opportunity to find out the who/what/why behind a bottle of wine, the opportunity to talk to the person who made the wine, to hear their . . . story. Story goes a long way in making wine approachable and engaging.
So if you like that, if you’re intrigued by the “why” that went into that bottle of wine on your shelf, you will find no better event to indulge that than the Garagiste Festival.
What the heck is a Garagiste? From their website:
GARAGISTES – (garage-east) n, Fr. – A term originally used in the Bordeaux region of France to denigrate renegade small-lot wine makers, sometimes working in their garage, who refused to follow the “rules.” Now a full-fledged movement responsible for making some of the best wine in the world. Who’s laughing now, Francois? Syn: Rule-breakers, pioneers, renegades, mavericks, driven by passion.
The California version of this movement has embraced the name as a way to bring together micro-producers (usually no more than 1500 cases per year production, some produce much less) and use this festival platform as a way to bring their wines to the public in a way they’re not otherwise able to do individually. Some of the Garagistes have tasting rooms, but some (the majority, I think) do not. Many of them are new-ish to the winemaking game, but there are some seasoned old-timers as well, who continue to produce wine in small lots and with little interest of scaling up. They do what they do because they love it, and the wines reflect this beautifully.
I attended the Los Angeles Garagiste festival this summer, and was so impressed with the wines I tasted, and had a wonderful time talking to the winemakers. This is an up-close-and-personal event in a way that other wine festivals are not.
The Paso festival begins tonight with a wine and (grilled) cheese event in Atascadero–sadly, that’s sold out (but let’s just hope they repeat this particular party for next year’s festival, because let’s be honest–GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICHES). There are still tickets available for Saturday’s events, which include a pair of seminars, the Grand Tasting, and the after party. Tickets are available at the door, but in the event of a sellout, I’d highly recommend buying them now via this link. Your best deal is the day-long VIP pass, which gets you into both of the seminars, the Grand Tasting, and the after party.
I haven’t tasted wines from every producer who’ll be there, but I’ve tried a LOT of them–here are my don’t-miss recommendations: On Your Left, Pulchella, Caliza, Bodega de Edgar, Vinemark, and brand-spanking-new Garagiste, Serrano. If you recall my profile of Rabbit Ridge winery, Serrano is RR’s second generation getting into the game (and their inaugural 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon has already racked up some impressive accolades–I’ve had it, it’s TASTY).
The always outstanding Vivant Fine Cheese will be serving cheese and charcuterie during the Grand Tasting, and other vendors will offer their wares as well (think: estate olive oils that will rock your world).
The all-day event runs from 11:00 a.m. (with the first seminar) to 5 p.m., The Grant Tasting is 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., and the after party is 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. All events are at the Paso Fairgrounds, 2198 Riverside Ave, Paso Robles, CA 93446
You could (and should) be excited that LA has a well-established and (really) high quality craft spirits distillery. You should be excited that it’s downtown in the always-lively Arts District (location, location, location!). And you REALLY should be excited that this distillery is not just organic, they’re so focused on sustainability that you reduce your own carbon footprint with every 2 ounces of their spirits you consume.
Did you ever think it could be so easy, so fun, so delicious to be kind to the environment? Well, WELCOME TO GREENBAR.
I know. I’m excited about it, too.
Greenbar had its genesis over 14 years ago when husband and wife team (at that time newly engaged) Melkon Khosrovian and Litty Matthew decided to try their hands at producing spirits. The endeavor arose out of a desire to find something a bit more palatable to drink at traditional celebrations with Melkon’s large Armenian family (yes, there’s a love story in the mix, too). The celebrations involved beautiful toasts with high-proof (and often harsh) fruit brandies and vodkas, which were just too much for Litty’s palate (Litty has a culinary background and her palate is more attuned to fine wines–a woman after my own heart, clearly). She was eager to fully take part in these family gatherings, so they set out to create some spirits that would make it easier for her to join in.
Their dabbling proved successful and delicious, and after a couple years, they decided to officially go into business–their handmade spirits using fresh, real ingredients (a pear and lavender vodka, for example) had impressed friends and family with their quality and the couple were now trying to keep up with requests for their spirits.
As one of the first distilleries in California since prohibition, Melkon and Litty were trailblazers (because they had to be) in going through the somewhat arcane application process. Though the state legislature is slowly catching up with modern spirit production and sales practices, the laws that governed licensing dated back over a century and weren’t really designed to deal with the sort of market we know today, and certainly never had craft producers in mind–and which also favored distributors more than it does small producers.
Once they’d worked their way through the state and county/city requirements, they were, indeed, in business. They’ve grown significantly over the years, and in 2012 moved from their original location in Monrovia and into their current location, a 14,000 square foot converted warehouse in the Arts District.
This is where you need to go, because you need to taste these spirits. You have the option of taking a tour with tasting, where you’ll be introduced to all aspects of spirit production at Greenbar, starting with an introduction right on the distillery floor. You’ll conclude with a tasting upstairs in their beautiful tasting room that overlooks the production facility (you can rent this space for private functions, too). The cost for a tour with tasting is $12, or $8 if you want to drop by for a tasting only–but I highly recommend the tour. It’s fascinating to learn all about their approach to spirit making (and then taste those same spirits).
There is one particular spirit, a bitter brandy, that I’m going to tell you all about in a day or two in its own post, because I find it simply astonishing. How’s that for a tease? But they do a seriously large lineup including vodkas (neutral and flavored), gin, tequilas (the only spirit not produced on site, as it’s a legit tequila–Melkon and Litty travel to Jalisco every year to oversee production), one of the most interesting (and tasty) whiskeys that will ever pass your lips, rums, brandies and liqueurs. There is, literally, something for every taste in their lineup. They even produce a line of five custom bitters, created by bartenders around the country (there’s a contest, it’s serious stuff).
My hot take/review on the spirits? It’s really hard to pick favorites out of all the excellent offerings at Greenbar. If you like whiskey, you’ll love their cask strength Slow Hand (they produce a white whiskey–you HAVE to try that one–a six-wood malt whiskey, and the cask strength six-wood). Their commitment to using only local organic ingredients, including the grains for the whiskey, is evident right on the palate. The flavors are clean and up-front, with a lingering and complex finish.
Their savory Tru “Garden” vodka is a must-try, and works beautifully in savory cocktails like a bloody mary, and the vanilla vodka–infused with real organic vanilla beans–isn’t even in the same universe with the more cloying mass-produced vanilla vodkas you’ve encountered elsewhere.
The Crusoe spiced rum? Big winner. If you think you don’t like spiced rum, you’re wrong (where this one is concerned). Again, it’s a huge departure from the overly sweet, chemical-overtoned spiced rums you’ve had in the past.
The Fruitlab liqueurs are all tasty (I’m a bit fascinated by spirits like this in general, and Greenbar’s really impressed me). They produce a liqueur you can only purchase at the distillery–their “California” liqueur called Grand Hops, which should appeal to any IPA drinker. It’s both bitter and sweet, as you might expect with anything involving hops–but it’s also herbaceous and skunky (in the BEST way) and unlike anything you’ve tried before.
Throughout their entire lineup–from the white Slow Hand to the Bar Keep bitters–you can taste the quality. You can taste the difference that the organic (and local!) ingredients make in the spirits. And it all comes in lightweight (read: easier on the environment) glass bottles with beautifully designed labels made from recycled paper and eco-friendly inks–and a tree. Greenbar plants a tree for every bottle they sell, which means they’ve planted around a half a million trees so far.
The distillery brochure you’ll pick up when you’re there for a tour and/or tasting includes many cocktail recipes featuring their spirits, so make sure you take one of those home (some of them are just fabulous recipes, and some are new and interesting takes on old standards).
And if you’re into making your own cocktails, Greenbar hosts cocktail classes most Friday nights where you can try your hand at some mixology with the Greenbar spirits lineup.
Until you’re able to make it in for a tour, you can find their spirits at most Los Angeles-area Whole Foods stores (there’s a product locator on their website, and you’ll also find the aforementioned cocktail recipes there, too).
Tours and tastings are every Saturday at 1 p.m., 2:30 p.m, 4:30 p.m., and 6 p.m.. Tastings are available Friday and Saturday from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m., and the distillery store is open the above hours, plus Monday – Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Greenbar is located at 2459 E 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021, 213.375.3668. You can book your tour (and cocktail classes!) online through their website; they do accommodate walk-ins for the tours, but reservations are strongly recommended.
As I work my way through some preliminary and background posts in my Year in the Life of Wine project, this early work is as much for my own edification as it is my audience’s–and it’s got some fun photographic challenges.
I wanted to do some light coverage of this year’s harvest to feature in these preliminary posts, and that would mean shooting when they harvest at Tablas Creek. They harvest at night. And that is a tough thing to shoot–action shots in almost total darkness? Hey, I’m always up for improving my skill set–and will need to if I’m going to shoot this intensively next fall. First, thank goodness for cameras that perform well in low light. That helps a great deal. As for the rest? Jump in the deep end of that figurative pool and get to work.
The payoff is that it gave me a much-needed handle on how to approach this kind of vineyard photography, and got the creative wheels turning as I think about interesting ways to photograph things next fall now that I have a feel for the technical requirements.
I may have nibbled a few Mourvèdre grapes (Counoise, too), and discovered that grape juice mud is a thing in dusty vineyards. And it’s sticky stuff. I was impressed again with the hard work and skill of the harvest crew (all of whom were so incredibly lovely to hang out with as they worked and I shot).
And, most of all, I’m excited to taste the wines that are made from these grapes I followed over the course of a night and morning. I’m already a fan of Mourvèdre generally, and Tablas Creek’s is one of the best I’ve had.
So. Never been present for a night harvest? Go take a look right here, in that case. Later this week: back at the winery with the fruit from the night’s harvest.
More about the Chateau and Georgie in a moment, but first, about the lunch itself: it was such a wonderful reminder of why I–and I suppose all of us–love wine so much. I love to settle in with a glass of something delicious all by itself, but there’s something transcendent when you have just the right great wine with just the right food. It can be downright revelatory.
If you’ve never dined at Georgie, it’s well worth a visit. All of the dishes we had at the luncheon are available on the regular menu, so if you see something here that looks good–go get it!
We started out with a thoroughly impressive pairing–Prieuré de Montézargues rosé (one of the labels owned by the Chateau), with a single, perfect oyster escabeche, a Galician preparation topped with a meticulously brunoised pepper relish. When an Amuse-bouche is placed in front of you and you reflexively grin at the sheer aesthetic loveliness, you know you’re in for a good time.
And so the rest of the lunch progressed–yellowfin poke and the Chateau’s 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc; kale and tabbouleh salad with the astonishing 2012 Clos de Beauvenir, a Roussane-dominant blend and the estate’s top white. I will dream about this wine. My favorite of the starters, the herbed labne–a riff on tzatziki topped with cucumber, cherry tomato and pickled red onion–was paired with the 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, which has aged beautifully, drinks beautifully, and still has years of (delicious) life in the bottle.
And those were just the whites.
On to the heavier plates and the lineup of the estate’s Côtes du Rhône Villages, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge (2012 and 2006), and their Châteauneuf-du-Pape des Cadettes, their premier Rouge, made from a dedicated 20-acre vineyard under vines ranging from 80 to 100 years old. The food continued to impress as we moved into the heavier dishes, including some truly inventive pairings–especially the salsa verde marinated shrimp which made for a surprisingly spectacular pairing with the Côtes du Rhône Villages. My favorite dish served with the reds was the short rib ravioli (because come ON you know this is going to be good!) and the des Cadettes. FANTASTIC.
In short, Chateau La Nerthe produces some of the finest Rhône wines you’re likely to find–know that much (and those of you in the Los Angeles area can find them at Wally’s). The Chateau has a wonderful history, and I’ll be interviewing their export director, Christophe Bristiel, here in the coming days about that in detail.